Article written by Mark Stevens. Photos by Sharon Matthews-Stevens.
While I have long been smitten by the culture of the Caribbean, its irresistible beaches and the lure of its sapphire seas, savoring the tropical delights of this must-do destination in the process, I have only recently become more attuned to the natural splendor that adds so much to the appeal of this irresistible part of the world.
I’ve begun to focus on exploring “off the beaten track”, following mountain paths to secret waterfalls, traversing august stands of primary growth rainforest accompanied by the shrill calls of howler monkeys and the chorus of songbirds and parrots.
I have discovered, in visiting a tantalizing trio of Caribbean countries, the natural splendor of this region. One hike at a time.
LEAVE THE BEACHES BEHIND ON GRENADA’S TRAILS
Hike to Grenada’s Seven Sisters Falls, then treat yourself to a cooling dip in a pool below the cascade.
Despite Grenada’s preponderance of beaches, on our first visit here I was equally smitten by the beauty and drama of the island’s interior.
That’s why, early on that first visit, I found myself trudging skyward along a mist-shrouded rainforest trail leading to Mt. Qua-Qua’s summit. Huffing and puffing, I followed my wife and our guide, Telfor Bedeau, an islander touted as the “Indiana Jones of Grenada.” At one point the mist cleared and we stopped on a narrow section bordered on both sides by precipitous green slopes.
I’m afraid of heights. My hike ended here.
The views from the top of this mountain are said to be spectacular. I’ll never know.
Even so, I thoroughly enjoyed plan B, a more leisurely stroll circumnavigating the nearby crater lake at Grand Etang. Furthermore, Grenada boasts a wealth of trails with varying degrees of difficulty. Hardly surprising this island’s often rated one of the Caribbean’s top three hiking destinations.
Consider the trek to Seven Sisters Falls, a roughly 40-minute hike where you can reward yourself with a cooling dip at trail’s end. Do an easy 10-minute hike to Royal Mount Carmel Falls, Grenada’s tallest cascade. Something like twenty waterfalls here, along with a variety of trails from that gentle stroll around Grand Etang’s crater lake to the rigorous ascent of Mt. Saint Catherine. En route to the trailhead on that first hike we passed great trays of spice drying in the sun, embraced by the aroma of cinnamon breezes.
On our fourth visit to Grenada I remember those seductive scents, even as we plan to attack just one more trail. That’s when it strikes me. Grenada is known – with great justification – as the “Spice Isle.” Maybe they should call it “Hike Isle”.
SEEK OUT THE VINCY PARROT IN A ST. VINCENT AND GRENADINES FOREST
St. Vincent and The Grenadines are home to trails from leisurely strolls to demanding volcano treks.
Long before the island of St. Vincent, the leading voice in a choir of natural beauty called the Grenadines, justifiably earned recognition by the World Travel Awards as this year’s “Best Nature Destination,” I knew that it was an eco-tourism must-do.
That’s when, roughly fourteen years ago, my wife and I rose before dawn one morning to hike the Vermont Nature Trail and Rainforest in search of the endangered Vincy Parrot. We admittedly never actually saw a parrot, but our adventure still proved infinitely rewarding. We negotiated a serpentine path through dense foliage, learning on the way about the wealth of vegetation surrounding us. We were awestruck by the surrounding forest’s magnificent vistas.
During our first full day in St. Vincent and The Grenadines on our most recent trip – our fourth – we explore the west coast by car, a rollercoaster ride of switchback turns and precipitous drops, treated to unspeakably gorgeous sea views, to vistas of towering forest-clad hills. After a seaside lunch of “provisions”, we enter the forest and hike to Dark View Falls, cooling off in a pool lounging at its base. Two visits, two hikes. And that barely scratches the surface.
Challenge the approach to St. Vincent’s volcano for spectacular views of the volcano itself (along with stunning vistas and birding opportunities along the way) on the la Soufriere Cross Country Trail. Attack the Cumberland Nature Trail, a two-hour rainforest hike. Alltrails.com, the definitive site (and app) for die-hard hikers, mentions four worthy hikes on nearby Bequia, or you can visit Canouan and pit yourself against the heights of Mt. Royal, with its elevation of 877 feet.
If you’re looking to experience the natural splendor of one of my favorite Caribbean countries, you’re sure to do it in St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Just take a hike.
GET BACK TO NATURE – WAY BACK – IN THE WILDS OF GUYANA
Experience the natural splendor of Guyana when you negotiate a trail near the top of Kaieteur Falls, the world’s longest single-drop waterfall.
There is something that wonderfully engages the senses when you’re march along a path in dense rainforest accompanied by a soundtrack of red howler monkeys, something cleansing about the chance to look skyward and seeing them cavorting in the canopy a hundred feet up, something that demands your entire attention when you step from a green cathedral to a savannah populated by swaying waist-high grasses.
Now trace a path alongside a river that is part of the Amazon basin itself – watching cavorting giant river otters. Now follow a trail hugging the lip of a precipice overlooking the world’s tallest single drop waterfall. For that cascade you contemplate with every step on that path – Kaieteur Falls – is no ordinary sight. It is five times taller than Niagara.
Still not sufficient piqued by the prospect of hiking the wilds of Guyana? Experience the boardwalk at Iwokrama, a million-acre nature reserve, savoring a bird’s eye perspective on the forest canopy. Sleep in Atta ecolodge and awake the next morning for one more adventure, sipping your coffee even as a red-rumped agouti emerges from the foliage to check you out.
Search for an eagle called a Harpy, passing incense and cashew trees, scrambling over the roots of skyscraper trees with trunks as big around as cars. Clamor up a boulder-strewn ridge in the Pakaraima Mountains on a quest to find the cock-of-the-rock, a bright orange bird with a distinctive crested head. Here in the wilds of Guyana we have gotten back – way back – to nature, one trail at a time.
In her book, “Every Day Spirit”, author Mary Davis wrote that “a walk in nature walks the soul back home.”
Welcome to Guyana. Welcome home.
Article written by Mark Stevens. Photography by Sharon Matthews-StevensFor twenty-five years the writing/photography team of Mark Stevens and Sharon Matthews-Stevens has provided editorial and photographic Caribbean content to a multitude of publications.
They’ve worked with newspapers from The Washington Post to The Globe and Mail, magazines from Travellife to Caribbean Business and Travel, and online publications from ATasteforTravel.ca to VacayNetwork.com. They have hiked the rainforests of St. Vincent in search of the Vinci parrot, sailed the waters off countless islands and traversed Jamaica in search of the world’s best jerk.
In addition to numerous other writing and photography awards, they have been recognized for their writing and photography fifteen times by the Caribbean Tourism Organization during their Media Awards events. Mark and Sharon are true Caribbean specialists.
